How do I get rid of the understeer issue this game has?

Even when I have the exact same setup as the AI I still find myself understeering through most corners. And even if I attempt to rectify this issue in changing my setup, it means I lose time on the straights to the AI as they have better top speeds.

decrease the wings.
OR
Use GP3Phys.exe change (decrease) human mechanical grip.

the AI setup is unapplicable to the real gamers setup, cosy it follow prerogrammed lines on the track. However, starting by that you can get some modify on it and try it.
By the first you need to consider if you are palying by keyboard or steering wheel. With analogical steering/ joystic the sensitive on turn is different by the digital (steer AID activated) keyboard.
By the second, the setup you can retrieve from CCs setup I am not sure is complete info. Advanced level 1 and 2 setup could be setted too. If you decrese rear springs you can take better oversteer/acceleration in exit slow turn, but more consumption tyre/ground plant. If you decrease the front sway bar you can experience more oversteer in entrance of slow turn, but car will me too sensitive in fast turns, cause front wing become important contribution . You could try also modify the front springs, getting more stability but you should take on some pakers to avoid swing effect in strong braking (slow rebound in weight transfer problems) .
So, What I suggest, let me know if you are playng with analogical/digital system and let me know which track are racing. I'll give you the best setup.

pippozzo Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> the AI setup is unapplicable to the real gamers
> setup, cosy it follow prerogrammed lines on the
> track. However, starting by that you can get some
> modify on it and try it.
> By the first you need to consider if you are
> palying by keyboard or steering wheel. With
> analogical steering/ joystic the sensitive on turn
> is different by the digital (steer AID activated)
> keyboard.
> By the second, the setup you can retrieve from CCs
> setup I am not sure is complete info. Advanced
> level 1 and 2 setup could be setted too. If you
> decrese rear springs you can take better
> oversteer/acceleration in exit slow turn, but more
> consumption tyre/ground plant. If you decrease the
> front sway bar you can experience more oversteer
> in entrance of slow turn, but car will me too
> sensitive in fast turns, cause front wing become
> important contribution . You could try also modify
> the front springs, getting more stability but you
> should take on some pakers to avoid swing effect
> in strong braking (slow rebound in weight transfer
> problems) .
> So, What I suggest, let me know if you are playng
> with analogical/digital system and let me know
> which track are racing. I'll give you the best
> setup.

Pipozzo can you give me the best set-up for imola? I'm playing with a keyboard, I'm not having understeer problems I just want a nice general set-up for imola with keyboard

Further Options: bias brake balance towards rear(-).

If the car understeers on bumps then soften the front springs.
also soften the front dampers. You want to either soften the front or stiffen the rear. Find a nice balance and then fine tune from there.

Edit - also don't forget to put some front packers like pippozzo said, you want to stabilise the front if you change the balance.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/03/2019 05:46PM by GP2tifoso28.

Imola - new configuration AFTER 1994 -
has been changed deeply than previously.

I suppose you are racing with 1998 default cars (weight 605kg,
max torque @16500 rpm).
So,
Starting on the dry track.

qualify:

Front wing - 19 .
Rear wing - 16 (with more experience, also 15).
brake 37750:62250 .

gears: 24-30-36-42-49-55 .

front:
antiroll sway bar 2000.
packers 1
damper fast 4
fast rebound 4
slow bump 21
slow rebound 12
spring 1400
ride height 31mm

rear:
antiroll sway bar 300
packers
damper fast 4
fast rebound 4
slow bump 14
slow rebound 10
sping 900
ride height 56.5 mm

differential high.


for the race,
mind the weight of fuel is more changeble then
front wing become 18,
brake 31000:61000
front slow rebound become 13
rear slow bump become 15
rear height 57 mm to 58 mm depending how much fuel u have for 2 stops or 1.


then if you are on wet qualify/race

it will depends the track condition and wich tyre are on.
in general,
put both wings from 1 to 3 point more charged than dry one.
In the wet suggest to leave the front sway bar to 3000 .
put 1-2 point less the slow rebounds ,
1-2 point less the front spring too (depending how much water on track).



let's speak about the tyres in wet race/qual :

track not very wet, but the heavy rain comes down.
Start with intermediates, but mount shortly after the soft wet, or wait a few more laps and, further on, mount the monsoons directly.

very wet track, but little rain, lightening or intensification.
We start with the hard wet, at the beginning we suffer, soon after it improves.
If the weather improves, when it dries go directly to the dry soft (it is not advisable to mount the intermediate ones).
If it is expected to increase in rain, instead, it is better to start with soft wet directly.

very wet track, but heavy rain comes down.
starting with soft wet or monsoon depending on the track conditions, and if needed, put the monsoons too, further on.

track not very wet, little rain in lightening or intensification.
If the rain is destined to disappear, starting with a dry one, at first it slips a little but the trajectory dries up, then it goes better.
If the rain is destined to intensify, go further to the hard Wet (it is not advisable to go through the intermediate ones change).

Minding, when the track is wet and no more rain comes down, the line go to dry in 6-10 laps.

minding, when you use the keyboard the steer angle in turn is computer-driven,
so hand by hand you experiencing, you will have the sensitive to use the modulate steering,
as the modulate braking too. Basically, you need to use the steer keys and z brake key flashing/quickly, because
so it will correct eventually oversteers in acceleration/on the turn.
Something like that is for accelerate key over the turns. If you don't have automatic brake, the accelerate you need
modulate with flashing key press quickly to remain to the correct rpms in the turn.


Now, let's speak of driving style. . specificly for Imola, with those setups:
first turn. tamburello chicanes , enter in first gear, key flashing/modulate accelerating, keeping far from the external kerbs in inner,
accelerate all in exit of the first part, take the line and get full kerbs in exitof the second part, taking the straight.
second chicane. Villeneuve turn. enter in second flashing accelerate, don't take too much external kerbs in exit,
remain clear line, up to the Tosa.
Enter in first gear , take the line really close to the internal kerb , mind it's nervous acceleration in exit - modulate it -, feel oversteer,
modulate the comma key (trun to right key) you don't need to take external kerb in exit,
then the climb to the Piratella, enter the third/fourth gear , keep the rpm some seconds with modulate acceleration,
pull down in exit taking the external kerb,
then the other part downhil to the acque minerali, ALL MODULATE BRAKING ,enter in fifth, when start to turn
fourth, when car is near the external kerb in enter, third, when car is just on the kerb, second,
keep a bit in late to turn for exit, so feeling oversteer before the exit,
acceleration pull down, starting the climb, taking the internal and external kerbs in exit, prepare for the Variante Alta,
enter in third or forth, important do not use acceleration at all over the turn, r just a bit modulate, but just when the tyre are
on the track. Its kerbs are insidious! very high, especially in quali or wet conditions not use too much on the kerbs there,
inner one, particularly.
so, then go down to the rivazza. Really understeer turn! enter in second/first, not too much anticipate, mind understeer,
cosy in downhill, keep clear line, modulating acceleration on the internal inner kerb and external inner kerb. The second part of turn,
enter in third keep the rpms with modulate acceleration, take normally the kerb in exit but not remain too much on it,
because you will need the acceleration full just down from it, arriving to last chicane, start to turn in third, in the middle,
second, don't use the kerb internal ,first, and then accelerate all for the exit, taking a bit the external kerb,
minding modulate acceleration while have the tyre on it...

Ok thanks pippozzo I will try to upload the telemetry file here after I set a few decent laps. I'm using f2 and f7 assists, driving for Ferrari and yes I'm using the original cars and tracks



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/03/2019 08:08PM by GP2tifoso28.

ok. mind if you use automatic gears, maybe some gear refered in my comment could be change cosy sometimes I aimed to the gears to have best acceleration without skating...

Ok thanks pipozzo I'll be sure to make sure the gearing works well with f2 enabled, I'll post up the telemetry file once I've set a good lap, but it might take a while because I'm going to develop my own set-up first and set my best lap, then I will use your set-up so I can compare the telemetry files and lap times