Cyclic Redundency Error :S

After a load of conflict and fights on uses the PC; Dad's annoyed and is getting me a laptop so that he can sit in peace.



I've gone for this Dell 15.6' Studio laptop; Base price = £699
After the "upgrade" it's £889

PROCESSOR Intel® Core™ i5-520M (2.4GHz, 4 Threads, turbo Boost up to 2.93GHz, 3MB cache)
OPERATING SYSTEM Genuine Windows® 7 Home Premium, 64bit, English
MEMORY 4096MB 1333MHz Dual Channel DDR3 SDRAM [2x2048]
HARD DRIVE 500GB (5400RPM) Serial ATA Hard Drive
GRAPHICS CARD 1GB ATI Mobility Radeon™ HD5470 Graphics Card
OPTICAL DRIVE Blu-Ray ROM Drive (read/write CD/DVD & read Blu-Ray Disc) (+£90)
LCD 15.6in Widescreen Full High Definition (1920 x 1080) WLED with TrueLife (+£70)
WIRELESS CONNECTIVITY Intel® Wireless LAN 6200 2x2 802.11a/b/g/n card (EUR) (+£10)
SOUND SOFTWARE Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi MB Software Suite

However now the things with the (+£--) are the extra things and which do you recommend that I get rid of and which do I keep?

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Another question is that; which is the best SATA Hard Disk out there at the moment. My other disk conked out with a KERNAL error and I'm going to defraggle it and get all the data back. After that, use that OLD drive as a backup (I know you lot have told me loads of times :P) and then the NEW one as the main one.

I found these on Scan.

640GB WD Caviar Black
[www.scan.co.uk]

640GB WD Caviar Blue
[www.scan.co.uk]

What are the differences and will they work with the system or PSU even that I've currently got at home?

PSU is a

JEANTECH 500W (ATX/BTX/EPS) (Yeah, it's been that for ages)
A/C: 115V-230V
Frequency: 50-60Hz

I've had many PC problems/ideas posted on this site and I apologise for that.

Thanks

Monil

P.S. Best ideas for TV Recording on that laptop? (Not urgent but something to think about)



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/02/2010 11:55PM by Monza972.

Dude... seriously, for that price range and spec, get yourself a PC. :s

Laptops are great for specialised fucntions, but crap at trying to do everything. That's what PCs are for.

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Please find us on [en.wikipedia.org] for more information.

Edit, why is it not updating my post? Ok something crappy is happening and it is not displaying half of what I included in the post below. What is with that? Very annoying.


Jenson drives it like he owns it; Lewis drives it like he stole it



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/31/2010 09:01PM by danm.

Monil that is a ridiculous amount for that.

Go to overclockers and customise one of their pre-built chassis systems. Very good value for money, and it will actually last you heaps longer than that laptop, which will only get slow very quickly and be useless in a year or two. You can also include a massive monitor and still be the same price as a crappy laptop.

[www.overclockers.co.uk]

[www.overclockers.co.uk]

You won't be complaining for a fair while.

Don't get me wrong, I hate the whole VAIO surcharge that normally goes on and I hate all laptops for everyday use, but if you want a laptop for £800 then you'd be nuts to go for anything other than this. It is 17inch though, so hardly the most portable device ever conceived. It does have an HD 5670 graphics chip though, so rather more potent than the Dell you've specced above. The CPU is a tiny bit slower, but certainly not noticeable.

Just to clarify though, that hard drive you've specified is a for a desktop, right? You don't make it clear, but presumably it is given you've listed a desktop PSU. The hard-drives will work fine with that PSU (if the PSU doesn't have a SATA power connector then you'll need an adapter, but that's it). The difference between the 2 hard drives is pure speed. Not a massive amount in it, but it would make sense to spend the extra £4.

Regarding TV, you're limited to a USB tuner on most laptops. There are very few which have one built in.

Sony VAIO's... offff. Garbage.

Very good, when they work. Until the batteries die from all the whizz pumped into them.

Customer service is shockingly bad too.

Plus VAIO's weigh a TON. If you are going for a laptop, the number one goal must be to use it when you are not able to use a pc at home, or another pc in a library of wherever, uni, school...

Besides that, what exactly is the point?

Frankly, I'd rather have a mid range desktop and a netbook to check on the go mails for the price you'd pay for a decent laptop.

At least it would last longer out the box, plus you can customise it and pro-long its life for a LOT longer, bit by bit.


Jenson drives it like he owns it; Lewis drives it like he stole it

Thought about it with Dad after your comments on here and he said it's better to wait and get the PC sorted and then get on with the laptop stuff. Ordered the drive from Scan and it should arrive on Tuesday and I get on with it and start backing everything up.

Think I'll keep searching for laptops over the next few months.

Thanks

Monil

Go for a MacBook :D

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Ok, I got my new drive and enclosure today to transfer all the things to the new drive. Apparently it's giving me a weird error when trying to take ownership of the folder in the form of a "Cyclic Redundency Error" - Tried Google but all it has is, "click here to fix the above problem"

I hope I don't loose my files or such. It's got years worth of stuff and my important biology report which needs handing in after Easter. yelp!

bump?

Google gives a load of suitable results. :\

This is the 2nd link on Google and tells you exactly what the problem is. The data being copied basically isn't intact either from the source or on the destination - most likely the former.

Do a full disk check before trying to do anything. It may simply be corrupt files rather than a damaged disk, but this will detect (and may fix to an extent) both.

gav Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Google gives a load of suitable results. :\
>
> This is the 2nd link on Google and tells you
> exactly what the problem is. The data being copied
> basically isn't intact either from the source or
> on the destination - most likely the former.
>
> Do a full disk check before trying to do anything.
> It may simply be corrupt files rather than a
> damaged disk, but this will detect (and may fix to
> an extent) both.


Oh, thank you so much! I've been going out of my mind with worry.

Oh man;

Now it said "windows was unable to complete the disk check"

I have a Dell Studio too, it's a very decent laptop!

F1Champs.net - F1 Manager Game (WIP)

What make is the dying drive?

gav Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> What make is the dying drive?


Western Digital Caviar 400GB.

It started dying because of a BSoD relating to a Kernal error popped up last Sunday night. I had to quickly get a recovery plan and have bought a new WD Caviar Blue 640GB drive and an External SATA Enclosure in which I've got the old drive. It's currently connected by a USB.

Before you do do anything, copy your most critical files off, folder by folder or file by file if necessary. At least then if it all goes tits up, then all you've lost is some time, convenience and non-critical files rather than essential data. When you have concerns over a hard drive, the first action should always be to rescue the critical data while you can access the drive, as when you next try to turn the PC/external enclosure on, that drive might not even be available.

Not that I expect it to make a difference, but try changing the USB cable and use another USB socket (just to rule out obvious problems and it's a cheap way of doing it). It's not certain that it's the hard drive - it could be faulty RAM or perhaps even the southbridge. Try sticking it back in the PC connected via SATA again - again it won't likely make much difference (it probably won't even be recognised - the IcyBox USB controllers are famously resilient and far more so than the motherboard SATA controllers), but again it's easy and free.

Then get Data Lifeguard Diagnostic for Windows and see what it says. Let it run a full test and it might just mark any faulty sectors as such and allow the Windows drive check to complete and get the majority of data off the drive.

This isn't much use to you at the moment, but this is where incremental backups from Acronis True Image or Windows Backup (and presumably other backup utilities) really pay you back. You create one base backup, then after that, all that gets backed up is what has changed since the previous backup. Obviously that means that if a full backup can't complete (which would presumably be the situation at the moment - obviously if you can't do it manually, the likelihood of a program doing it isn't good either) then you only lose what you've done since your last backup. Of course, there's also a chance of the backup drive failing, but having backups of backups is a bit much even for me... I'll just download my porn again.

I have to say, Western Digital failures are rare things. I've had 1 dead drive (which was dead on arrival rather than failing in use) and I've seen 1 dead drive from another PC. That's quite a few until you consider that I have 13 permanent WD drives in my PCs at home and at work, of which the 2 PCs at work are on 24/7, and I have another 10 or so which are used as hot-swap drives for specific projects and backups. 3 of those drives are from 2003. Their returns department are good though. For that dead drive I went through their website and was sorted pretty quickly. I did have to arrange collection and packaging myself, but the turnaround was quick (especially as it was just before Christmas this year). Hardly Logitech standards of returns, but far above most companies which I've used (including the etailer which I bought the drive from).

Tried to get the most important data off it such as that coursework, photos, music and documents.

It's not even allowing me to do that. It just says "Cannot read from Source File or Disk" and if I select and then drag into this new drive it says "Cyclic Redundency Error"

Now trying to copy some and it said "drive f isn't formatted. format now?"

edit1: it asked again



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/03/2010 10:00PM by Monza972.

The drive is buggered. Switch it off for the night. Tomorrow morning, take the drive out of the enclosure and seal it (and I mean seal it... a really tight knot or 2) it in a freezer bag. Stick it in the freezer for an hour or so. Take it out, remove it from the bag and wipe the condensation off of it for 10 minutes or so. Stick it back in the enclosure or the PC. Try again. It might just do the trick.