Realistic F1 Performance Levels

Does anyone have a realistic set of performance values for the F1 season this year. Whenever I do a championship I always find if if i'm driving a lower down the grid car or middle of the grid car (i.e. Spyker or Red Bull etc.) I can out perform McLaren and Ferrari etc. at certain circuits and in the wet I can be by far and away the best car. Anyone have the same problem or how do you get around it

Try to set Player Car power dependant to chosen team... There's oprions avaliable on GPxPatch or GP3Edit...

GPGSL-3: Fox race driver and team manager - 2011-2012 Constructor Champion - 2012 Driver Champion

Season 9 - #18 Erick Von Draxeler - #35 Marcus Bongardt

Use the GP4 performance pack by Mariano Di Carlo or performance file
by belini together with their physics.

Happy racing from Germany !!!

Or ------ Learn all the performance related programs to get something like '07 power and handling, and then set the Magic Data for each track so that the best cars are around this years best lap times (I use quickrace and go by qualifying times). I'm not saying this is better than the data suggested by Draffi5, but it will teach you what does what in the game, so that a change of tarmac (like Brazil last weekend) won't blow you out and a quick edit will keep your race sweet.

Brian

Nico bites yer tyres!

How do you set up the car to be faster than everyonr in the wet? I find mine practically undrivable!

reddwarf Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> How do you set up the car to be faster than
> everyonr in the wet? I find mine practically
> undrivable!


there are a few quick things you can do to give you more grip in the wet, firstly and probably the easiest to do: add more front and rear downforce, secondly softening the cars suspension will usually help - aids the cars handling as a softer set-up allows the car to move around a little more, raise the ride height slightly reducing the chance of aqua-plaining, that should be a start try playing around with those and see how you get on.. hope that helps.

"Racing is LIFE. Anything before or after is just waiting"
Steve McQueen.

Don't know about others but i usually prefer to lower my front wing and raise my rear wing. Oversteer in the wet is a nightmare.

In regards to the wet in gp3. On this site a year ago someone suggested that the CC cars were still in dry trim - a bug in the program.

I always set my car to dry conditions, and it makes the perfomance levels are very realistic. The car is not as driveable, but then neither are the CC ones. This works 100% for me.

Before I used to lap everyone.

Codonnell is right. I am do the same thing, makes if harder racing the cc cars. Also I find the perfomance of the CC cars important. Using GP3 Edit I have the top racers, Mclaren and Ferrari drivers at 16550 ish with anything from 75 - 275 range This make racing them very even. I am in a Ferrari and can get pole on some circuits and not on others.

codonnell Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> In regards to the wet in gp3. On this site a year
> ago someone suggested that the CC cars were still
> in dry trim - a bug in the program.
>
> I always set my car to dry conditions, and it
> makes the perfomance levels are very realistic.
> The car is not as driveable, but then neither are
> the CC ones. This works 100% for me.
>
> Before I used to lap everyone.

gp32k and gp4 have seperate settings for wet, for some strange reason
gp3 magic data only has dry settings.

Yep. Wet races favour you if you are prepared to play with extra downforce. Better to keep with your dry setup as has been said already but don't expect the 'puter to help you stay on the black stuff.

@MarkWS: I take it you are using wheel and pedals? Try using keyboard at that driver level for cc cars. I keep my own at 18500 and the best cc's at 16000. Can just compete on a good day but any slip-ups and kiss goodbye to the podium. Just checked the ranges I use and everyone is between 17 and 36 so I get few surprises and most times the front is a red or silver car (occasionally a white/blue one for part of the race) but I like settings that preserve tyres and tend to challenge late. BTW my car is mostly blue and will carry a 7 in '08.

To get realistic lap times I play with the MD, especially track grip and air resistance. Once my own times and settings are the best I can devise and close to the real times I set the cc cars power and grip ratios to bring them into realistic times also.

As this thread is about settings, does anyone else play with weight distribution in APE? It can be very rewarding and next years car looks to have found an extra 1/2 sec a lap this way. I don't allow myself to make major changes like this mid-season unless my team puts out a B-spec as they did for Japan to save tyre wear and improve rear stability.

Nico bites yer tyres!

I just installed belini's 2007 Spa (reduced GP3v1.13 version) with performance files by Mariano Di Carlo (mentioned above by Drafi).
It doesn't seem so realistic because the best CC car has lap time around 1min.42sec.9.
I am never able to match this.
Any suggestions?
Pep
What do you think about changing values in .g3p file? Or is it better to change .md file?

Realistic depends on many things.(circuitdata - cclines etc.)though laptimes depend on grip en BHP's as simple as that.The more grip the less time, the more BHP's, the less time.
What I do is use GPX Racemanager (from Roberto Scandura). First decide which car you want to drive. Take a performance file (I use the Belini's) Put it in the great GPXpatch program (thx René Smit) under GPXset and make it carpower team depended.
Then you make notice of the realtimes in F1 (I look at the formula 1 data base [www.f1db.com])
Then you make a test. So you don't drive but do a "qualy" in nonchampionship race (accelerated time) and look at the outcome of the fastest lap and compare it with the real time. Adjusting grip and Horsepower in the performancefile editor from Roberto you can make times almost 100 percent equal.So it's a little work to test. And then get on board the car you want to drive. My experience is that you are faster as in real time, so you have to lower your grip even more to make it really realistic. But then you have to test driving the car you want to drive. and that will take a lot of time.Timelike you can make it (doing it this way)very realistic.look here:





this lap(in a Belini setting GP32K (thx Belini)) will illustrate that the spyker is to fast, though the setting was:
spyker(the car i drive)griplevel 15350 BHP 730
reanault griplevel 15650 BHP 775
But i can assure you it was almost impossible to pass the renault.
Belini has done a lot of work in realistic grip levels etc., but i always adjust them to my personal taste, so you can do a very compatative race. And it keeps you from hanging around on the
streets.

Good Luck!

Brianf666 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Yep. Wet races favour you if you are prepared to
> play with extra downforce. Better to keep with
> your dry setup as has been said already but don't
> expect the 'puter to help you stay on the black
> stuff.
>
> @MarkWS: I take it you are using wheel and pedals?
> Try using keyboard at that driver level for cc
> cars. I keep my own at 18500 and the best cc's at
> 16000. Can just compete on a good day but any
> slip-ups and kiss goodbye to the podium. Just
> checked the ranges I use and everyone is between
> 17 and 36 so I get few surprises and most times
> the front is a red or silver car (occasionally a
> white/blue one for part of the race) but I like
> settings that preserve tyres and tend to challenge
> late. BTW my car is mostly blue and will carry a 7
> in '08.
>
> No, I use keyboard at those levels!! I have to race very well to get a pole or a win. Very hard even in a Ferrari. If I make a mistake I couldn't catch up the Mclaren or Ferrari. It's very realistic but can be very annoying after a small mistake!!

the rain issue I can't get around it. I use the original physic file, original MD, CC cars (for the fastest) at 16384 as it is by default for the player, and finally I use the dry setupin bot weather conditions. Still for example at Silverstone, on the dry, my lap times are about 0.2 faster than cc, while in the wet I am more than 2 seconds faster!

Hi to all. Ok, it's true: CC have only the dry setup, and even if you drive under the rain with dry setup human player has a big advantage in laptime. But my question is: how many human player has finished a wet race? I mean CC are much lower than me, but they are very precise, and don't do many mistakes; in wet conditions a bit mistake can be a disaster for human players, while CC car seems programmed to drive "safety" rather than fast.
Anyway, it is quite impossible to solve the problem: the only way to have good wet races would be to set two different MD file, one just for wet conditions with more downforce and more Cc grip, but it is unrealistic, 'cause you have to know before the race itself if it will be wet or dry to choose the right MD. My experience is that if you start the race or a session (and when you see the weather forecats you have started the race) every changing is applied from the next session, so...the only way is to decide for the wet race and use the wet setup MD file: that's why i said "unrealistic", there's no surprise.
Personally, i do this: i set the % of rain in the MD quite low to prevent big raining, and to have changing weather condition during the race, and maybe a little rain, just to create a bit of caos with the pitstop to change the tyres.
If someone is interested, i did a test to understand how the value in the MD affects the weather condition, and i found out this: about every 1 point in the MD is about a 2% of probability of rain, so if you set 50 in the MD file you will have 100% of wet races; therefore, higher value in the MD means not only higher % of rain but also plentiful rain. So, i set the % of rain in the MD from 0 (for the oval) to max 10 (that is a 20% probability of rain, 1 race on 5).
Hope this can be useful.

the belini grip patch solves the problems of wet/dry race advantage, without
it the player will always have 16384 grip. if you don't want to use the grip patch
you could try increasing all the AI grip by around 200.

personally I enjoy wet races, I recently raced montreal in the wet, qualified
2nd and 5th in the dry and finished 2nd and 7th, kimi was just too quick this
time

pk

Thanks Paul,
but I tried the patch for gp3 1.13 and it does not look very different, is there something I do wrong?
I use:
original physics
in gpxpatch a performance file in which me and the top AI cars are on 16384

cheers

fubby Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Thanks Paul,
> but I tried the patch for gp3 1.13 and it does not
> look very different, is there something I do
> wrong?
> I use:
> original physics
> in gpxpatch a performance file in which me and the
> top AI cars are on 16384
>
> cheers

first thing is to make sure your not too fast in the dry,
try reducing the grip for the car you're driving so that
you can just get pole then try it in the wet.

to make sure the grip patch is working properly try back
to back test in a spyker and ferrari, power dependent on

pk

can you make a complete carset along with performance files all in one, because your other work is very good for example your Genjams work with all graphics cards please reply to my e-mail or phone me plesae + 44 7988864125