AAA car setup manual

Does anyone of you have a setup manual to setup the car?

It's very easy to adjust wings,gear ratio,ride height,etc.. but it's not so easy to set the differential and some level 2 options.

Do you have any specifications about that?

It's also easy to download already done good setups,but it's quite difficult to touch differential setting.

Thanks

Boomer

MORBID!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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REHAB IS FOR QUITTERS

Yeah, I think we need Morbid here. Have you tried Google or something about general car setups? Might explain a little how it all works n stuff.

Or read this fantastic thread and you'll probably learn more about setups than you ever dreamed of. Besides it is brilliant story.

[grandprix3.com]





"Ask and it will be given to you; seek and you will find; knock and the door will be opened to you."
(Matthew 7,7)

I am here. But I am working on a tight schedule. My semester report is due in 12 days. So I don't have time to type up a lot of stuff. But I can still help.

Try this link:

[www.sportplanet.com]

Despite being for GP2, it is still one (if not THE) best setup guide available on the net. There are actually 3 guides, so check the links one the right side of the page:

Eric Côté's setup guide (the best one)
SimRacingNews' setup guide (very good)
Themis' Guide (also of value)

I know that none of them really covers differentials, but they aren't that hard to figure out. Basically the diff links the two driveshafts to the rear wheels. The driveshafts transmit the power from the engine to the wheels, and since there are two of them, each wheel (in theory) can spin independant each the other. So one wheel could have 55 rotations per second and the other only 5. As you can imagine, that would be a major spin. This is what the diff affects.

By linking the two wheels, you make sure that you do not spin off the track each time you apply power or brake. The tighter the coupling, the less amount of wheelspin difference will be allowed.

You have 4 settings:

NOTE: The wheel seldom LEAVES the tarmac, unless you are really keen on riding the curbs, but it can have very little contact, and thats what I am refering to both here and later in the text. Generally try and minimize this with the spring, roll bar and damper settings before setting the diff. Otherwise you are just masking poor mechanical grip.

Speed shaft difference (acceleration) - This helps when you are accelerating and one wheel becomes unloaded. A wheel becomes unloaded when you turn. So if you accelerate through a right-hander, the right rear wheel tends to lift into the air. Without the diff, it will spin up much faster than the other wheel, and when it makes contact with the tarmac again, you take a big spin. So this is useful when turning and accelerating.

Torque input (acceleration) - This is connected to acceleration in general. When you accelerate, the rear wheels will not have the same level of traction, because of the suspension being in motion and because the tarmac is never excatly the same in two spots. Thus without the diff, you would always experience varying levels of oversteer while accelerating, so you would be flicking the steering wheel from side to side, until you reached the point where the aerodynamics provide the majority of the grip (at about 130 kph depending on wing settings and undercar downforce). So this catches a low speed slidy rear. Beware that the coupling is done to the torque of the engine, so the harder you accelerate, the tighter the rear wheels will be linked together.

Speed shaft difference (decceleration) - This is almost the same as for acceleration. This setting prevents one wheel from locking up when it becomes unloaded. Again unloading of a wheel happens when you turn. Also, take note that this diff setting only kicks in, when you use the engine as a brake. So if you are going through the nice tricky Maggots/Becketts section at Silverstone, this setting kicks in and prevents one of the wheels from locking up will unloaded. If it didn't, then when the wheel returned to the tarmac, then it would be locked and send you into a spin.

Torque input (decceleration) - Again this setting only works when you use the engine as a brake. This links the wheelspin difference allowed with the amount of torque provided by the engine, which means that the harder you let the engine brake, the tighter the rear wheels will be linked. This adds to your braking stability, since the harder you let the engine brake, the more the rear wheels will spin in unison (Good for Hockenheim!!). However this is a disadvantage if you get several places where you need the engine as to brake heavily while turning, since the diff will try and prevent your rears to turn at different speeds (Bad for Maggots/Becketts).

Generally you will set the diff very late in the setup proces, and it induces quite a lot of understeer, especially in the 0-175 kph range. I usually try and keep fair amounts of oversteer in both the aero and mechanical grip while still setting good laptimes. Then increase the diff settings to acheive more stability and hence more confidence in your car.

Happy tinkering!

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It's only after we've lost everything, that we are free to do anything.

Ahh yeeess. Mister Gutberg... Thanx Vades.

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It's only after we've lost everything, that we are free to do anything.

There is some excellent setup material tutorials on Frugal's World of Simulation - it's specifically regarding GP3 but the setting adjustments and telemetry analysis is the same - try here:
[www.frugalsworld.com]

A few rules of thumb:
1) Use as little down force as you can handle
2) as low a car as you can - provide the following;
3) always have some suspension travel - even if its 1/2mm - this is where packers come in
4) Set your top gear to max out just before jumping on the brakes for your longest corner
5) Set your low gear for a good getaway balanced with the best exit of your slowest corner.
6) ussually set your gear spacing at even increments between the low and high
7) brake balance is very personal and driving style driven
8) differntials take (for me) the longest time to get right - but they are worth the track time to dial in the way that's best - they make a huge difference - setr them at the extemes and you'll have an excellent demonstration.
9) fast and slow bump and rebound also very by desired driving style - do you like to steer with your back wheels, or like a more nuetral car?
Remember - Nothing can replace track time - in a sim or a real car.



twgavin

Don't thank me, thank SEARCHBUTTON-MAN

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REHAB IS FOR QUITTERS

Oh, silly me... Give credit where credit is due. Thanx to SEARCHBUTTON-MAN.

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It's only after we've lost everything, that we are free to do anything.

Really a deep explanation ! I'll try to put in practice your precious suggestions soon !! Thanks

I have an idea to deploy a new F1 real team in substitution of Arrows :

1) I drive the car

2) Morbid is the chief-engineer

3) Vader is the sponsor

4) Ellis aerodynamic engineer and color designer

Agree?

Boomer

I am the sponsor? Is my middle name Cresus?

Although "Vader Racing" does sound good ... Besides I would have a say if it comes to choosing a livery design. Okay, "Vader Racing" cars look BLACK with only write or creepy green type.



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Michael Schumacher is sooooooooooooo cute!!

WHo said YOU twat would be the sponsor?

Yes, you are right. Vader Racing sounds good. Have we already talked about helmet shapes?

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REHAB IS FOR QUITTERS

"Have we already talked about helmet shapes?"

no, and i don't think it is appropiate to on a family board

"Have we already talked about helmet shapes?"

no, and i don't think it is appropiate to on a family board


LMAO!!!